Roofing FAQs

COMMON ROOFING QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

About Our Company

Quick Facts About Amherst Roofing Company
  • In business since: 1990
  • Service Areas: Naples, Marco Island, Bonita Springs/Bonita Beach, Estero, Golden Gate, Fort Myers, all of Collier County and Lee County
  • Licensing: We are a licensed Florida Roofing Contractor
    • # CCC1332482 | # CAC1821486
  • Insured by FRSA Florida Roofing and Sheetmetal Association
  • BBB Better Business Bureau A+ Accredited Business
  • Owens Corning Preferred Contractor
What areas does Amherst Roofing Company service?

We proudly service the Southwest Florida area, all of Collier County and Lee County, including: Naples, Marco Island, Bonita Springs/Bonita Beach, Estero, Golden Gate, Fort Myers

Why choose Amherst Roofing?

With decades of experience serving Southwest Florida homeowners, property managers, and businesses, Amherst Roofing combines industry expertise with local insight.

We understand the challenges of maintaining roofs in our unique climate and pride ourselves on transparent communication, reliable scheduling, and honest assessments.

Each inspection is performed with professionalism and care — because protecting your property starts from the top down.

Do we charge for estimates?

NO. We provide written estimates free of charge. Amherst will visit your home or business and provide you with a free estimate for services.

Roof Inspections

Roof Inspections

Regular roof inspections are one of the most effective ways to protect your property investment — especially in Florida, where roofs face year-round exposure to heat, humidity, and sudden storms. At Amherst Roofing, we offer annual, semi-annual, and quarterly inspection programs designed to catch small issues before they become costly problems. Our certified roofing professionals thoroughly assess your roof’s condition, document any concerns, and provide clear recommendations for maintenance or repair.

Why Regular Inspections Matter?

Florida’s climate is both beautiful and demanding. The combination of intense UV exposure, high winds, salt air, and heavy rainfall can quickly wear down roofing materials. Regular inspections help identify damage from storms, debris, or aging — ensuring your roof continues to perform safely and efficiently. Proactive care not only extends the life of your roof but also helps maintain manufacturer warranties and reduces the likelihood of emergency repairs.

What's included in our roof inspections?

Each roof inspection is a comprehensive evaluation of your roofing system and its supporting components. Our process typically includes:

  • Visual inspection of shingles, tiles, or metal panels for cracks, lifting, or wear.
  • Checking for leaks, water stains, or soft spots on the roof deck.
  • Inspection of flashing around vents, chimneys, and skylights for seal integrity.
  • Assessment of gutters, drains, and downspouts for clogs or poor drainage.
  • Examination of ridge caps, seams, and penetrations for signs of deterioration.
  • Review of attic ventilation and insulation where accessible.
  • Documentation of all findings with photos and professional recommendations.

Following the inspection, we provide a detailed report outlining your roof’s current condition, potential risks, and any preventative maintenance or repairs suggested.

What is the recommended schedule?

Because Florida’s weather can change quickly, we recommend:

  • Quarterly inspections for coastal or commercial properties exposed to high winds and salt air.
  • Semi-annual inspections for residential properties, typically before and after hurricane season.
  • Annual inspections for newer roofs or those under warranty, to ensure continued coverage and compliance.

Our flexible service plans can be customized to fit your property’s specific needs and maintenance schedule.

Homeowner Roofing Questions

How can a homeowner recognize when a roof has problems?

Issues are often discovered after leaks or damage occur. Inspect twice a year and after major storms. Look for: cracked/warped/missing shingles; loose seams; deteriorated flashing; granules in gutters/downspouts; inside: cracked paint, discolored drywall/plasterboard, peeling wallpaper.

My roof leaks. Do I need a total replacement?

Not always. Leaks often come from loose/damaged flashing or a localized area. A complete system failure—typically from improper design, materials selection, or installation—usually requires replacement.

What are my options if I decide to reroof?

(a) Full tear‑off and replacement; or (b) Recover/overlay over the existing roof but not recommended. Code limits: Most Florida jurisdictions allow no more than two roof layers. If a recover has already been installed, a full tear‑off is usually required.

Can I do the roofing work myself?

Roofing is hazardous and technically demanding. DIY can void manufacturer warranties and risk injury. Homeowner maintenance should be limited to visual checks (fall/spring) and gutter cleaning. If you must view the roof, use a tied‑off ladder with rubber feet; wear rubber‑soled shoes; avoid walking on the roof.

How long should a roof last?

Depends on materials, design, installation quality, maintenance, and Florida’s hot/humid climate. Typical ranges:

  • Asphalt shingles: ~15–20 years (Florida often shorter than brochure warranties)
  • Architectural/laminated shingles: often longer than 3‑tab
  • Wood shingles/shakes: ~10–40 years
  • Clay/Concrete tile: 20+ years
  • Metal: 15–40+ years
  • Slate: 30–100+ years
What will a new roof cost?

Varies by material, roof size/slope/complexity, tear‑off needs, underlayment type, local labor rates, time of year, permits, and inspections. Obtain 3–4 proposals from reputable licensed contractors. Balance price with workmanship quality, materials grade, and warranty.

How can I estimate annual roofing cost?

Annual Cost = (Total Cost: materials + labor) ÷ (Expected service life in years).

What is underlayment and why does it matter?

Underlayment is the secondary water‑shedding layer beneath the roof covering. Types include mechanically fastened felt (e.g., 30#) and self‑adhered “peel‑and‑stick.” Many insurers view direct‑to‑deck self‑adhered as a Secondary Water Barrier (SWB).

What can I do about mildew or algae on my roof?

Consider professional cleaning and/or periodic algaecide treatments (e.g., Roof‑A‑Cide®) applied every ~2 years by approved installers; DIY chemical washing can damage materials and void warranties.

What types of permitting, licensing, insurance and consumer protection should I verify when selecting a professional roofing company?

Permits & Inspections: Every installation requires permits; permits should be posted; insist on proof of passed inspections before final payment.

Licensing: Verify Florida state roofing license (not just occupational license). Check with DBPR (myfloridalicense.com) and local building departments.

Insurance: Contractor should carry liability and Worker’s Compensation (residential crews have high injury rates per dollar volume—protect yourself). Request certificates in the company’s name and verify with the agent.

Bonding: Bonds exist but limits may be small relative to large backlogs; do not rely on bonds alone.

Payments & Liens: Avoid paying ahead of work performed; obtain Contractor and Material Supplier Lien Releases with payments; understand Notice to Owner timelines.

Contract Clarity: Include scope, materials with Florida Product Approvals, schedule, wood replacement allowances, cleanup, warranties, and who performs work (employees vs. subs).

Preparing for a Roof Installation and Replacement

What is the roofing process?
  1. Select a licensed/insured contractor you trust.
  2. Choose system (shingle, metal, tile, etc.) with pros/cons, budget, appearance, approvals.
  3. Inspect substrate; replace damaged wood; re‑fasten deck to code‑plus.
  4. Underlayment install (felt +/or self‑adhered) with Florida wind/water considerations.
  5. Metalwork & flashing (chimneys, vents, skylights; drip edge; proper lapping/miters).
  6. Roof covering install (starter, layout/chalk lines, valleys, hips/ridges, nailing schedule).
  7. Ventilation (ridge/off‑ridge/solar) sized correctly.
  8. Final inspection & cleanup.
How long does replacement take?

Small single‑family shingle roofs can often be completed in about a day; tile/metal or larger/complex roofs may take multiple days to weeks, depending on weather, inspections, and scope.

How should I prepare?

Remove fragile items from walls/shelves (vibration from nailing), clear driveway and perimeter for material staging and dumpster. Contractor should protect the driveway (e.g., plywood sheets) and landscaping and secure the home weather‑tight overnight if multi‑day.

Will my property be a mess?

Roofing is messy but should be managed. We protect shrubs/landscaping; daily clean‑ups are performed; debris is hauled to the landfill; magnets used to retrieve nails/fasteners.

Can I choose my roof color and style?

Yes. Shingle, metal, and tile now come in broad color palettes and profiles. We’ll provide options aligned to your home’s architecture and neighborhood standards.

Can you install a new roof over an existing one?

Sometimes. Preferred method is tear‑off to inspect the deck and remove wet/unstable materials. If recovering, the structure must support added weight, insulation cannot be wet, and attachment must meet wind‑load requirements. Code generally prohibits more than two layers.

Southwest Florida Roofing Questions

Hurricane & Insurance

How does a hurricane wind‑mitigation inspection affect my insurance?

A wind‑mit report documents features like deck re‑nailing, roof‑to‑wall connections, secondary water barrier, and roof shape. Stronger features can qualify for premium credits.

Which roof shapes perform best in high winds (gable vs. hip)?

Hip roofs generally perform better because they present fewer broad faces to the wind.

Are impact‑resistant shingles worth it here?

They add debris resistance and often carry higher wind ratings; some insurers view them favorably in underwriting. Not typically available in our region.

What’s the typical permit timeline in Collier/Lee counties?

Simple reroofs can move quickly; structural or historic cases take longer. We handle submittals and track approvals for you.

Post‑storm checklist if I don’t see a leak?

Look for displaced tiles/shingles/panels, cracked ridge caps, lifted flashing, debris in valleys, and granules in downspouts; schedule a post‑storm inspection.

Coastal & Corrosion

Best fasteners/coatings for coastal homes?

Stainless or premium‑coated fasteners and marine‑grade finishes on metals; aluminum/copper/galvalume components resist corrosion better than bare steel.

Best roof type near the coast—tile, metal, or shingles?

All can work if engineered for wind and corrosion. Metal excels with the right alloy/finish; tile is durable but heavy; shingles are budget‑friendly with upgraded wind ratings.

How does salty air affect painted finishes?

It can dull or pit inferior coatings. Marine‑grade finishes and periodic rinsing (within ~1 mile of the gulf) extend finish life.

What is valley metal and why does it matter?

Valleys concentrate water flow; properly sized, corrosion‑resistant valley metal with correct lapping prevents overflow and wear.

How do drip edge and gutters work together?

Drip edge directs water into gutters and protects fascia. We align gutter hangers to the new drip edge and confirm downspout flow.

Ventilation & Energy

Are metal roofs loud in the rain?

With solid decking, quality underlayment, and insulation, sound is comparable to shingles.

Will a lighter roof color keep my home cooler?

Yes—reflective “cool” finishes reduce attic temperatures and AC load.

Ridge vents vs. off‑ridge vents vs. solar attic fans—what’s best?

Ridge vents offer continuous exhaust; off‑ridge vents are discrete outlets; solar fans actively pull air. All must be balanced with adequate intake (soffit) ventilation.

How much attic ventilation do I need?

Rule of thumb: 1:150 net free vent area to attic floor area, or 1:300 with a balanced, properly detailed system. This is typically part of the initial design of the home. In a reroofing situation venting is typically replaced like for like. In order to determine if additional venting is needed you would need to consult with an engineer to determine this.

Can a new roof reduce indoor humidity or mustiness?

Improved ventilation, sealed penetrations, and reflective surfaces can reduce attic heat and moisture migration and improve comfort.

Solar & Skylights

Can you coordinate solar panels with a new roof?

Yes—typically reroof first, then install solar with flashed standoffs and planned wire paths.

Do you remove and re‑install existing solar for reroofing?

Yes they will need to be removed and reinstalled by a Solar Contractor—panels and racking are temporarily removed and re‑installed after the new roof is installed.

Is reroofing the right time to add skylights?

Ideal time—hurricane‑rated, self‑flashing skylights integrate cleanly with new underlayment and flashing.

Do metal roofs increase lightning risk?

No. They don’t increase strike likelihood and they’re non‑combustible; lightning protection can be added and properly flashed.

Materials & Design Details

Can discontinued tile be matched for repairs?

Sometimes. If an exact match isn’t available, replacing a full section or slope may be needed for visual consistency.

Does roof pitch limit material choices?

Yes. Products have minimum/maximum slope limits and specific valley/underlayment details for steep pitches.

What low‑slope/flat roof options are available?

TPO, modified bitumen, and coatings—selection depends on ponding risk, traffic, reflectivity goals, and budget.

Can coatings extend the life of a metal or flat roof?

Often, if the substrate is sound. Elastomeric and silicone coatings add reflectivity and waterproofing; surface prep and adhesion are critical.

Can my existing tile be reused to save money?

Usually not recommended due to breakage risk, discontinued profiles, and warranty implications.

Logistics & Project Management

When is the best time to reroof?

Florida has no true “off‑season.” Roofers schedule around rain and secure underlayment first.

Consider reroofing when:

  • Leaks are numerous or persistent despite repairs
  • Repairs spawn new leaks or worsen issues
  • Tolerance for leaks is low (occupied spaces, valuables)
  • Often it’s better to reinvest in reroofing at the right juncture than to repeatedly repair a failing system.
How do you protect pavers, lanais, pools, and landscaping?

Driveway/paver protection boards, tarp coverings for sensitive areas, controlled debris zones, daily cleanups, and magnetic sweeps.

What happens if hidden wood damage is found?

We provide photos and a unit‑priced change order (per sheet/linear foot) This pricing is found in the Terms and Conditions in the contract.

Can you roof during rainy season?

Yes—work is sectioned and underlayment is secured the same day to dry‑in; weather windows guide daily production.

Do you offer financing or staged payments?

Yes—options vary by project; many customers use milestone draws (signed contract, dry in, roof installation completion).

Will a new roof interfere with alarm/satellite/low‑voltage lines?

Potentially near eaves/attic. We flag and protect known lines, home owner will need to coordinate dish re‑aiming with their service provider.

Who handles HOA approvals and city/county permits?

We can assist with ARC/HOA submittals and handle permit applications, posting, and close‑out inspections.